Kilifi-Seychelles

Map of passage to Kilifi - Seychelles

Franda II left Kilifi in a fresh breeze and confused seas. Port Lamu was only 120NM to the North. We usually would not clear out of a country if our next port of call was in that same country. However, Dad had made the unusual decision to do so - premonition, maybe? The chart and pilot book showed favourable currents for 250NM up the coast. Franda II slogged and tacked to windward for 1 day, 2 days, 3 days and were finally 12NM out from our destination. As night was falling, it was decided to stand off the coast till daylight. This was a safe but disappointing decision for the crew. In the strong wind, Port Lamu was unsafe to enter at night.

Daylight arrived, and no port was in sight; not even Africa could be seen. With the morning sun came wind and clouds, a lot of them. It was noon the following day (36 hours later) when Mum finally had the sun on her sextant mirrors. When she worked out her noon sight, to the family's amazement, she put us south of Kilifi, not North. Mum's navigation had always been faultless, and she had found tiny atolls in vast oceans, but her family asked her to retake the site. She duly did, with the same result. Franda II had been sailing at 6 knots in a NW direction to hold her position. However, Mum's navigation put us South and a little East by 160NM. Further away from Port Lamu than Kilifi, where we had started from.

The following 6 days were very frustrating, with contrary winds and currents of up to 8 knots. So, with motor and sails and going by the old sailing ship's directions, we finally broke out of the worst currents and headed East. Although we had wanted to go north.

During this time, it was Mum and Dad's 23rd wedding anniversary. Kathryn and I put much time and consideration into planning a feast to celebrate. A roast chicken cooked in the morning, with all the trimmings, and a not-so-successful sponge cake. So we had a second go at a cake, this time a chocolate layer cake, but like the weather, the galley conspired against us, and the oven died halfway through its cooking. The celebratory dinner started with a hors d'oeuvre of pickled onions and cheese on toothpicks with savoury eggs, followed by a shrimp cocktail. Cold chicken, potato salad, and kumara were washed down with a bottle of Champagne sailed out from New Zealand. The dessert was pineapple meringue pie. The celebrations were finished with a cup of tea and cake. What a feast!

The following 15 days were glorious sailing, albeit slowly, with the sun in the morning and the moon at night, good food, cold beer and smooth seas. Day five was warm enough for us girls to shower under the deck hose. This hose pumped water straight out of the sea, so now we were cleanish but salty. Buying soap that would lather in saltwater was challenging and expensive; many just left an awful film on the skin. So we just rubbed our bodies with a luffa and cold seawater. Then, finally, rinsing off with a jug of fresh water from the cream can, which stood tied on the poop deck.

We sisters managed a lot of schoolwork on that voyage. It was reasonably calm, and Franda II even motored on one day. One morning for breakfast, Kathryn cooked up seventeen Flying fish "caught" on deck overnight. Fried with an egg and leftover potato, it made an excellent breakfast. Another sixteen flying fish were "caught" on deck the next night, so again, fish for breakfast. Flying fish leave the water when pursued by a larger fish. With their oversized fins, they usually glide for about 50m. Occasionally, they can travel over 400m and stay airborne for 45 seconds. Sometimes, a yacht's sail gets in their way. They "fly" into the sails and fall on deck.

The washes under the saltwater hose were becoming quite pleasant as the air temperature was slowly warming up,

One morning, I heard a loud twang while burning the toast on the stove and knew it to be a fish. So, turning the gas off and hollering "Fish", I ran topside. The line was like a steel rod. Knowing it was a large fish and probably a shark, I left it to Mike to pull in. Stu got the shotgun ready to shoot it before bringing it aboard. After a strenuous time, Mike finally got it close to the hull. Sadly, with a shake of its massive head, the shark broke the trace and, with a flick of his tail, disappeared, taking our favourite lure. Stu would have to make another.

Stu's last successful lure was red and white, so he tried to emulate it again. First, he cut a 1-meter length of stainless steel woven wire for the trace. Next, a loop was created. Stu threaded 2 tiny, short copper "pipes" onto the wire, then bent the end back up through the "pipe", forming a loop. Now, he squeezed the "pipe" with a crimping tool till it held both wires firmly. The process was repeated with the other "pipe", ensuring the crimps were attached correctly. He then repeated the process at the other end. Next, the strength of the loop was tested by hooking it over a fixed bolt, putting a winch handle through the other loop and pulling as hard as he could. The loops did not alter. Good. Now, he needed to make and attach the new lure to the new trace. He dug through the fishing tackle box until he had the hook he was after. He then went to the rag bag and found some red and white rags. He ripped some strips off and threaded the hook's eye with them. Taking some fine single-stranded stainless wire, he wrapped it around the rags and hook just below the eye of the hook and twisted it tightly in place.

Stu then connected the hook to the trace with an extensive, unique "safety pin". All of these pieces would be above a 50kg breaking strain. Any fish more significant than that would have been a struggle for Franda II's crew to "land" it. Now, the trace and hook needed to be attached to the line. First, Stu checked the paravane was still firmly attached. This triangular plastic dives down under the water when towed, taking the hook down deeper. Stu cut the old bit of trace off it and then re-tied the new trace with a unique fisherman's knot. Ready to catch fish again.

The following day, Mum called two reluctant daughters up into the cockpit. The girls wanted to avoid taking a watch, so they were slow in responding to their mother's summons. Instead, the girls were relieved when Barbara showed them that she had been designing a certificate to commemorate crossing the equator. The sisters had not considered the equator, but now they were excited. Happily, they spent the afternoon on the manual typewriter creating the certificates and even using characters to create a picture of King Neptune and his trident. Franda II was about 100 NM south of the equator, so they should cross the next day.

A massive school of Dolphins visited Franda II, breaking the monotony of ocean passage. They jumped and played around her for a good half hour, to the crew's delight. Kathryn and I lay on the foredeck, our heads on either side of the bowsprit, peering down at the beautiful, sleek mammals. Who, in turn, would roll onto their side and steer back up at the sisters.

Mike ran up the ratlines and from the spreader height could see much further, but still the school of dolphins stretched all the way to the horizon. This was the largest school of dolphins the family had ever seen.

A longline was finally spotted, we had been on the lookout for one for weeks, as the snoods made a very robust trolling line. Mike went up the ratlines to see if any ships were visible. The coast was clear, so we dropped Franda II's sails and hooked a buoy with the boat hook. Slowly, by hand, we pulled Franda II along the feed line until we reached a "dropper". Stuart unclipped this snood and hauled it in. Sadly, we didn't get a free Tuna as well. We were feeling very guilty, so we quickly left the area. We usually didn't stoop to stealing. However, now we would not lose fish with a line breakage.

Even the guilty feeling did not stop us from trying for another snood, but we saw the fishing boats each time we got close to the buoys. Sometimes, the ships were surrounded by sea birds as they steamed slowly along the mainline, pulling it in over the bow, removing the fish, re-baiting the hooks and letting it out over the stern. The smooth, unstoppable process was fantastic to watch.

There were many ships around, so we kept a sharp watch. We were again in the shipping lane of the ships travelling between Africa and Madagascar, and there were still many fishing boats around. Although the fishing boats were indubitable, lit up like Christmas trees, they were erratic in their movements, unlike the ships. Keeping clear of them was more difficult than missing a vessel travelling in a steady direction. Franda II watches were again "real" watches where looking out for vessels was paramount. We could not rely on the ships to see us.

We continued sailing East. We were 200 NM North of Seychelles when Mike managed to contact Seychelles marine radio using the Ham radio and discovered that our friends had remained in Seychelles.

While listening to 2182 on the HAM, Mike heard two New Zealand yachts trying to contact each other. As they could not hear each other, Mike relayed for them. One was in Seychelles harbour. The other "Natica" was in difficulties 120 NM SE of Mahe island. Their mainsail was in tatters, and saltwater had entered their engine sump. Sailing to windward without a mainsail is almost impossible for most yachts. Natica had been 6 weeks in that area and 68 days out of Diego Garcia, their last port of call. A trip that was just over 1000NM and should only take 8-10 days. Their food and water were being heavily rationed. Conferring and agreeing about going to their aid, Franda II started heading south. They were disappointed that their hard-earned Northerly position was lost, but a yacht needed help. Natica was ecstatic to finally have contact with another yacht and even more relieved to learn that Franda II was heading south to aid them. Mike kept up a 2 hourly sked, to keep Natica's crew cheered.

After a day of sailing south and level with Seychelles, we were informed that Natica was receiving favourable winds and was slowly making its way towards Seychelles under jib. Franda II continued south, meeting Natica 20 NM south of Seychelles, and gave them fresh meat and provisions. Although Natica had been able to hook Dorado, the loitering sharks always got the fish before they could be landed.

Franda II's crew now decided they'd head into Seychelles as well. They had already been at sea for 18 days and were not yet halfway to Djoubti. Besides, they could catch up with their friends again. The equator crossing would have to wait. One of Natica's crew members was a girl off the Kiwi yacht, "Genesis", who left simultaneously but had not yet arrived. Something else to worry about.

As usual, we had eaten very well on that 3-week voyage. When many cruising yachts had no freezer or even a fridge, Franda II ate fresh food every day. During those 3 weeks, we consumed roast chicken, pork chow mein, steak, beef mince, roast beef, liver stew, more steak, and roast beef and fish. The girls had also cooked multiple cakes and meringue pies whenever a roast was in the oven. Fresh coleslaw for lunch and Fresh bread.. Our diet mostly stayed the same from the port to the ocean passage. Although we possibly had fresh fish more often at sea. As a beef farmer, Dad did not believe that a meal without meat could be called a meal.

Crossing the shallows into Seychelles after 3 weeks at sea, we caught our last fish, another dorado.. We anchored at the lighthouse and cleared in. Again, the customs men took our shotgun ashore to lock up.

Although I had a wonderful week back with my friends on Jolly Jumper and Dreamtime, I suffered from a sore on my toe that was not healing. I was no longer allowed to swim as tropical saltwater, unlike cold saltwater, is unhealthy for cuts. Although Dad had put some poultices on my foot and I had been bathing it, it was not improving. Finally, Mum gave me some of our precious NZ antibiotics, and the toe came good. I was unhappy being kept out of the water but realised it'd only be for a short time.

The closer Franda II got to the North African coast, the more talk there was of pirates. They operated out of Somalia. Franda II had a dilemma. What would their strategy be if they saw distress flares at sea, were hailed by a small vessel, had a vessel come alongside or even be boarded. They had a gun, but would they use it to shoot pirates? The family decided, maybe, but they would see how the situation unfolded. The parents definitely did not want their daughters in the hands of the pirates. Molotov cocktails were made and stored in the dive compressor/fuel box on the poop deck. A few cigarette lighters were stored alongside them. The girls were instructed in their use but could only use them at their father's or brother's command. It was stressful for the older family members, but the 13-year-old me was too young to fully understand all the ramifications.

Our last day in Seychelles was similar to the final day in any country, needing to provision and spend the last bit of local cash. Here, we tried to provision with cases of soft drinks, mainly to use as a mixer, a sack of onions and 3 dozen eggs. However, I walked to 4 different stores and could only purchase 1 dozen eggs, but I did manage to buy 2 lbs of liver and some NZ cheddar with the remaining local currency. Stuart headed for customs to retrieve our shotgun and return it to the yacht. Franda II left Mahe and sailed out to St Anne for the night. We will set sail for Djibouti tomorrow morning.