New Hebrides-New Caledonia

After 3 weeks of enjoying the company of newfound friends, Franda II left most behind in Port Vila. Some we expected to meet again soon. With others, our paths would not cross again. As I watched Caroline wave goodbye from the deck of Searcher, I wondered where we would meet again. Noumea maybe? I had a lot of fun playing with all the yachtie kids and was already missing them.

The Loyalty Islands beckoned, and Franda II sailed south with a freezer refilled with cheap steak (NZ$1.40kg). We travelled in the company of the New Zealand yacht "Genesis II", whom we had first met in Fiji.

After a short passage of 225NM and early on the third day, Franda II anchored at the Island of Mare, the southernmost island in the Loyalty Islands. Mare was the "market Garden" for New Caledonia. Unlike Noumea, which was mined for Iron ore, it had extremely fertile soil.

Laying out at anchor, I was amazed at how far the local kids would swim from shore to say hello in their halting English. We welcomed the kids onboard warmly. With their welcome, more kids swam out from shore. Soon Franda II's deck was littered with local kids. We did not allow them to go down below as they were wet and salty. Kap and I had great fun swimming with them and diving off the deck. Finally, after several hours the local kids were encouraged back ashore, and Franda II became quiet again.

No wet person or item was allowed below. Franda II's captain knew that saltwater and steel did not get along. Just one of the many standing rules integrated into life onboard Franda II.

We had spent the day anchored to ensure landfall at New Caledonia was made in the light of day. We were in no hurry with only 77NM to sail, so we settled down to our leisurely evening meal. Genesis and Franda II up anchored after dishes had been done and the galley made ready for sea. A quiet, slow night's sail down to Baie De Prony.. So peaceful a night we did not lose sight of Genesis' night light.

From other yachts, we had heard that Noumea customs were somewhat lax. So it would be acceptable to spend some time before arriving in Noumea and clearing in. Prony Bay is a large bay on the southern end of New Caledonia, where diving is exceptional. My brothers managed to spear or catch many crayfish, octopus and fish. Numerous fantastic BBQs were enjoyed on deserted beaches, sometimes eating fish and at other times a change to steak.

The two crayfish species in these warmer waters are more colourful than the New Zealand cold water cray. One is covered in red spines on a blue body with striped legs; they are the most beautiful. The other has more greens and blues, electric blue eye shadow, and pink antennae. However, they taste the same as the red New Zealand ones. The whole family thoroughly enjoyed their fresh seafood, whether fish, crustaceans or shellfish. And just as well with the amount of fish on the daily menu!

Dad was probably the only family member that was a little homesick for New Zealand. Possibly as he still had a business there and needed to keep in touch with his partners? But, this lifestyle quickly became my norm, and I seldom thought of the farm, although I often thought of my friend Wendy.

The barren area of Noumea's southern coast was mined for Iron ore. The ore was close to the surface; therefore, the bulldozers were just ripping it apart. The iron ore was loaded onto a conveyor belt extending over the ocean to fill the waiting ships. It was then taken to the smelting works at Noumea. It looked so at odds with the lovely coastline and abundant underwater life. Four main iron ore reefs were being worked on in New Caledonia. Wages were high, so everything except grog was expensive.

Franda II was now in the company of "Windana". We explored the old nickel mine together and shared BBQs on beaches. It was a very relaxed time. The two yachts slowly worked their way NE towards Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia. On the last short leg to the capital, Mum, Stu, and I swapped crew with "Windana's" crew and sailed on board her to Noumea, winning the "race".

Amazingly, foreign visiting yachts were given 15 days free berth in the marina. The marina berthed about 500 local yachts and motorboats. Many were used on weekends, and Franda II would be rocked from 0700hrs to 1100hrs as they left and 1400hrs to 1900hrs as they came back in. It was very uncomfortable. They also drove their boats like their cars "Flat out"! No such adherence to the 5kph rule within the marina.

The marina had no clothes washing facilities, so out with the small plastic washing machine and hand wringer. Water and electricity were both readily available. Some yachties noticed the hand wringer, so it did the rounds amongst the 7 international yachts. It was a massive hit with the washerwomen.

Franda II purchased about sixty second-hand charts from an English couple. They covered the countries of Norway, England, France, Spain, and Panama across the Pacific Ocean to the Solomons. Dad did not pay for these charts but sent a letter to his lawyer in NZ asking him to transfer monies into the English couple's account in England. The letter would take 3 weeks to arrive in NZ, the lawyer would act, and the funds would be "wired" to England. The whole process would take at least 4 - 6 weeks. Meanwhile, the English couple would undoubtedly wonder if they would receive any money and if their trust in Dad was warranted.

In the same letter, Dad asked his lawyer to "wire NZ$500 if he had that much" to a BNZ branch in Sydney, as the family had used what he had "wired" to Fiji. Hopefully, the Aussies would give it up quicker than the Fijians had.

The "French" bread in Noumea was amazingly light. Mum wondered if it was the flour, so we bought some. It made terrific cakes, so we returned to the shop and bought a 5kg sack of flour.

Finally, in Noumea, I again met up with my friends aboard "Genesis". We four girls spent a few days just wandering around the town. None of us spoke French, but we were fascinated by the French ladies. I found Numea to be a real clash of cultures. Really beautifully dressed, made-up ladies in high heels stepping across open smelly drains in the centre of town. Just didn't gel with me.

With expensive groceries and our frozen fish stock nearly depleted, we sent Mike and Stu out in the bay diving with "Genesis" to help replenish the freezer. It was nice to have fresh fish and crayfish again and fish for another 15 meals in the freezer.

My 12th birthday and my first onboard. The "Genesis" and "Windana" crew shared the cake that my sister had baked me. I had lived on Franda II for just 4 months. Although not yet a teenager, sailing and mixing with many adults had matured me beyond my age.

One of my friends gave me a box of strawberry-flavoured powder to add to milk. I thoroughly enjoyed the "milkshakes", even made with powdered milk, and kept the empty box for many years.

Both Monopoly and cards had become a favourite pastime with us children. I was now the proud owner of the Monopoly board game, a combined gift from Mum and Dad and Grandma and Granddad for my birthday.

Kap and I were still occasionally getting schoolwork done. Of course, it helped that the "Genesis" girls had homework to do on their holiday from NZ, so we 4 girls managed to achieve some work together, but swimming and exploring beaches often won out.

Some newfound French friends showed us how to "French Polish" Franda II's interior wood laminate walls. This was physically hard work with a lot of rubbing involved. All the bunk rooms had wood laminate walls, so a few days of hard labour entailed. However, they did look bright and shiny when finished and worth the work.

A local Frenchman was building a wooden 50-foot yacht at the marina, and Dad "struck up a conversation" with him. Which led to his taking the family for a drive around the island. He, like everyone else there, drove very fast. It was terrifying for the backseat passengers. One advantage of the speed was that we got to see quite a bit in a short time. The roads were sealed and in excellent condition, but road rules were not strictly followed.

News filtered down through the yachting community, "a yacht that had left Villa when Franda II was there, bound for Cairns, had not made it". Sadly, they had hit a reef in the coral sea and were rescued by a passing Cargo ship. A very sobering thought but one not healthy to dwell on.

With sad goodbyes to "Windana", who stayed in the marina, Franda II and Genisis cleared out. The two yachts slowly returned to Ile des Pins, where we enjoyed good fishing and diving for several weeks. Finally, "Searcher" caught up with Franda II, and I was happily reunited with Caroline.

Ile des Pins groceries were, confusingly, much cheaper than Noumea. The flour was so cheap that we purchased 20kg, divided it into smaller portions and stored it in plastic bags behind the saloon seats to stay dry.

We spent the last of our French Francs filling with diesel. We tried to explain to the non-English-speaking attendant the amount of cash we had left, even showing him the notes. However, too much diesel was pumped in. A scurry resulted as pockets and handbags were searched for the few extra coins needed.

The 3 families hired 3 cars to drive around the Ile des Pins. Unfortunately, one of the kids from "Searcher" hurt his ankle. We asked some locals where a doctor could be found and was told there was a "hospital" in the next village. We found this surprising as all these villages were tiny and without electricity. However, a nurse answered our knock at the small building with wide shady verandas, still holding a freshly delivered baby in her arms. Understanding our request, she bade us wait and returned inside to clean up the newborn.

We waited patiently in the cool of the verandah, wondering how the nurse could help. Returning, she inspected the ankle and surprisingly said, "XRay". The nurse proceeded to another building where she started an 18-horsepower petrol engine by hand cranking it. She asked the parents to place the child on an upturned (NZ) apple box. The old XRay machine was turned on, and the ankle bone's image appeared on the concrete hut's wall! No brake, so the ankle was strapped for a strain. No fuss, no waiting, and no cost. The nurse had a Dr on call 24/7 as her backup. We left thankful and amazed at what was achieved with so little.

The 3 yachts slowly circumnavigated Ile des Pins, enjoying the outlying villages. The natives lived as they always had, without sealed roads or electricity. The crews swapped their crayfish for fish the villages had caught and traded clothes for vegetables the communities had grown or foraged. However, bananas, pawpaws and coconuts grew wild, so they were there for the taking. Green bananas were fried like potato chips, and green pawpaw could be cooked as a vegetable.

A different anchorage was had every night. Some were 5 NM offshore anchored on the lee side of coral heads, hanging back in 30 fathoms of water. It was fantastic diving visually and for the amount of food that could be hand caught or speared. The fishing was also outstanding, both when anchored and trolling. In the evening, the kids would eat on one boat and the adults on another, each yacht taking turns hosting.

We girls put some effort into getting a bit of schooling done as the ocean passage to Sydney was looming, and ocean passages and school work seldom went together.

Franda II, accompanied by our friends, returned to Bai du Prony for final farewells.