Seychelles-Kenya
Kenya Seychelles
Map of passage to Eagle Island
After 25 days of being in the beautiful islands of Seychelles, it was time for us to move on. This time to Kenya and the game parks. There had been a lot of talk amongst the yachties about the Somali pirates, and the other yachts wanted to avoid risking the African coast. So, we would leave our friends again and sail unaccompanied to the African Coast, hopefully meeting them again somewhere in the Red Sea.
As usual, Franda II did not go directly to Kenya. As there were a few planned anchorages on the way. On the first day, a quick sail around Mahé's coast to Port Launay for the night. A small first day to get away from friends and settle into the family/ passage routine. The following morning, after a swim, Franda II headed to Eagle Is(Rémire) in the Ameranty group, some 130NM (245km) in a westerly direction.
Eagle Island is a tiny island about 130NM (245km) west of Mahe, the main island of the Seychelles group. It was 0.35NM (0.65km) long and 0.27NM (0.5km) wide and only as tall as the trees, about 45ft (15m). Mum amazingly took Franda II straight to this tiny island that was only visible once we were only a few miles away.
My family and I explored the remains of the house where Wendy Veevers-Carter and her husband lived for ten years. I was amazed that a couple survived so long with almost complete self-sufficiency. The conversation must have become stale, with only the occasional sailor or provisioning boat crew to talk to. Kathryn and I surveyed the rest of the uninhabited island, finding pawpaw trees and helping ourselves to the fruit. Maybe they descended from trees that the Veevers-Carters had planted or the Guano mining camp the decade before. The ripe fruit was terrific, chilled with a bit of lime juice. The green Pawpaw was boiled as a green and was similar in taste and texture to chokos.
The waters were pristine, and the reef was an excellent untouched diving site. We spent three days swimming and diving, walking on the virgin beach and enjoying the peacefulness. We caught fish and clams. Clam fritters for breakfast were a hit with the family.
The flotsam on the island included the usual left foot thong (jandal) and fluorescent tubes. It had always amazed me that it was always the left foot thong that washed ashore on beaches. There were many fishing buoys, a few plastic bottles, and other plastic items, but only a considerably small amount of rubbish. As Franda II sailed away from the island and just beyond the shoal waters, we caught a nice size Tuna. Gutted, it weighed 37 lb. Yes, fish again for dinner, Tuna in white sauce with green Pawpaw as the vegetable.
Several small vicious squalls overtook Franda II. I felt some fear as I had forgotten the feeling of Franda II heeling and being tossed about like a cork. It had been a while since the seas had shaken Franda II so much. Philosophically, I realised I couldn't do anything about the roughness of the ocean. I knew we were safe, so I tried hard to ignore the scared part within myself.
We two girls managed a lot of schoolwork as the weather was fair. However, when the sails hung limply on one still day, and we were tired of getting nowhere, we decided to make some miles, so we motored the rest of the day. We really must have been sick of being becalmed as Franda II seldom motored as it was an unnecessary expense, and we could not readily afford the diesel. After sitting at the saloon table most of the afternoon, I happily finished six days of schoolwork. It was easier to concentrate on studying when there was nothing else to do.
For some unknown reason, I awoke early on day 6. I lay in my bunk and listened to the waves slap the hull. Franda II was still on a port tack, meaning that my bunk, on the starboard side, was on the downhill side close to the waves. The seas were still calm, and the wind gentle. No green or even white water on my porthole. I sat up on my bunk and looked out the porthole at the new day, lovely sunshine. Then, I happily jumped out of bed and put on a pair of undies and a shirt. As I headed down the passageway to the galley, I passed our "head" on the starboard side, then a step down into the boy's cabin. The passageway went through their cabin, between Mike and Stu's bunks by the hull and the enclosed engine room. I noticed Mike was not in his top bunk, so I guessed he must be "on watch". I filled the kettle from the tap and, turning on the gas stove, waited for the ring to ignite from the pilot light before settling the kettle to boil. I then climbed up the aft companion-way and said good morning to Mike. Mike had been out on the deck watching an exquisite sunrise and playfully chided me for sleeping in.
Hearing the kettle's whistle, I made my way below decks, down the 5 steps into the galley and made the ritual morning pot of tea. It was a calm morning, so I did not have to brace myself into the "L" shaped galley; I could just rest my hip on the cupboard. Regardless of the motion's smoothness, one always had 3 contact points with the boat. A sudden movement was then just dealt with without any issue or thought.
Firstly, I removed the cosy Mum had knitted from the dented stainless steel squat teapot. Next, I retrieved the tea caddy from the cupboard behind the stove. A large scoop of loose tea leaves was placed in the pot. I then sat the teapot on the gimballed stove to keep it level and poured boiling water on the leaves. Then, I lifted the bench lid to remove the milk from the fridge. Next, the cups were taken from their pigeonhole above the sink, where they sat snugly and safely. Putting milk into all the cups and sugar in a few, I poured a small amount of strong tea into the cups. Refilling the pot, I waited a few minutes then continued to 3/4 fill the cups. Finally, I added another 1/2 scoop of tea to the teapot and refilled it with hot water. Now, the teapot was ready for everyone's second cup of tea.
First, I delivered tea to Mike. He is on watch. Then, to my parents, carrying one cup at a time, I went forward past Mike and Stu's bunk, crossed to the port side below the forward companionway, and entered the captain's cabin. Mum and Dad had a bunk each, separated by the walkway leading to their ensuite. Dad had the Portside bunk, and Mum had the one up the centerline of Franda II. This morning, they were both sitting in Mums bunk with their backs to the headboard, discussing the day and awaiting their cups of tea. Next tea delivery to Stu and Kathryn.
The second round of tea had finished the milk, so I needed to make more. Firstly, I needed to wash the 1 lt Tupperware milk container. Next, I poured 2 inches of hot water into the clean container. Adding the cup of milk powder, I stirred it till it was lump-free. I then topped it with tap water, shook it quickly, and returned to its "home" in the fridge. Milk made from powder tastes better if mixed for a few hours.
During this ocean voyage, a vast school of playful dolphins surrounded Franda II briefly. Then, they disappeared to be immediately replaced by a few whales. It was almost as if the whales had chased the dolphins away. I was disappointed that the whales would not let us get very close. However, a few days later, Franda II was surrounded by the smaller pilot whales, allowing the family to have a good look at them. One even swam near the bow like a dolphin.
Franda II finally arrived in Kilifi, Kenya. 700NM (1300 km) after ten days of slow sailing from Eagle Island, Seychelles.
Although more challenging to "clear in", Kilifi was a much friendlier, cleaner, and cheaper port for foreign yachts than Mombassa. So, we entered Kilifi, flying the Kenyan and "Q" flags. Customs came and cleared us in. Franda II anchored out from a hotel, then Dad and Mike went ashore to the markets and bought some oranges, cabbage, and other greens. I appreciated the fresh fruit by eating two oranges!
The whole family went to Mombassa the next day to clear Immigration. But, terrifying, what should have been 2 hours was about one hour as the bus raced another. Neither bus stopped at any of the designated bus stops!
We visited the Mombassa yacht club to pick up our long-awaited mail. Sadly, there was none for me. While there, we chatted to people and had a late lunch. Dad talked to some interesting people till early evening. Finally, when we were ready to leave, we discovered we had missed the last bus from the nearby station. Dad queried a local who knew of another bus station that serviced Kilifi. The buses left on the hour, giving the family 10 minutes to find the station. Running down the street, we got close enough to see it leave. The tired family sat on the next bus going to Kilifi. We were not going to miss that one! It would be another hour before it left, so we had food and hot tea delivered. I did not like the rice and meat stew; although I was hungry, I could not eat it. However, the hot, sweet black tea was appreciated. Finally, we were on our way home. I fell asleep straight away, nestled in Dad's lap.
The most exciting time in Kenya was a trip to the Tsavo game park.
In Kilifi, there were a lot of Resident British families. The Huttons became friendly with the Hotel management, who allowed us to use the pool, squash court, snooker table, and watch the movies. Kathryn and I spent many hours in the pool, causing our hair to tinge green. There was a competition, which I excitedly entered, an obstacle course under and over stuff in the pool. Unfortunately, although I won hands down by a considerable margin, I did not receive first prize. The explanation, "You do not need encouragement", I was devastated, and it still haunts me to this day.
I met a local girl at the pool and spent much time swimming or on the squash courts with Karen, usually after completing my school work. I went home with Karen several times, spending the night with my newfound friend. Another friend I made was Winke. Her father owned the "snakatorium". I was excited to watch the snakes swallow the mice he fed them. Few families were Cruising in the late 1970s, so we sisters rarely had friends to play with. Therefore, we spent most of the time with each other and were great friends. It was a rare treat to socialise with other girls of similar age.
We met the Taylor Family from France, who offered their French address for Franda II to use when the time came. Next, the two girls met a local family, the Masons. The family had horses, and the sisters had several rides on them. It reminded me of my childhood in New Zealand and riding my beloved "Kodak" with Wendy.
Kathryn and I had many scuba dives with our brothers on the reefs inside the harbour. We had fallen in love with being in the underwater world and were becoming very experienced scuba divers. Mike and Stu discovered a few black corals at shallow depths, the first they had ever seen, but they had heard about them. Black coral was a fashionable, hence valuable, jewellery material.
Bus trips south to Mombasa were an education. Anything that anyone could carry was allowed on the bus. Chickens were most common, with their feet tied together and hanging upside down or lying on the floor. The occasional goat was also mixed into the melee. I was fascinated by an albino who frequented our route, a white-skinned African with white frizzy hair. Bare-breasted Mothers carried their babies with a sling on their backs. It was not unusual to see a flaccid breast slung over a shoulder to feed a hungry mouth—such a worldly education.
Cashews were everywhere. Roasted on the side of streets, in shops, on portable burners, cheap and tasty, they were a great snack. So, with the decision to purchase some for the next trip, we sisters approached several different stallholders, buying raw cashews from each of them.
At a Mombassa hospital, we all had our Cholera vaccination booster ready for the rest of Africa and the sail north.
It was common for the buses to race each other. I assumed it was to get to the waiting passengers first. The family generally felt it to be a little safer to travel at night as the oncoming traffic was easier to see with their lights on. However, one evening, while returning to Kilifi, I noticed a reflection in the window. I realised another bus was overtaking without any lights. That driver was trying to sneak past, so they had turned all the lights out, including headlights!! I brought this to Dad's attention. With all the pointing, the other passengers realised what was happening and yelled at their driver. The race was on and became quite terrifying. What if other traffic were doing the same thing. In the future, we will ensure that we return to Kilifi in daylight.
After a month, it was time to leave Kenya. Stores were ordered in Mombassa to pick up in a few days. Immigration came out to the yacht for clearance, the fees were paid, and then Franda II sailed for Mombassa, only 30NM to the south. With the aid of the binoculars, Mike guided Franda II out of Kilifi harbour as the navigation lights were not working. In Mombassa harbour, we anchored out in front of the yacht club. Dad visited Customs while Mum and we girls went uptown to purchase some cordial. Disappointingly, Dad was told he should clear out from Kilifi as that was where he cleared in. We then moved to the fisherman's wharf and filled the diesel and water tanks. The awaited stores arrived, potatoes, onions, carrots and greens (cabbage). After they came, many hours were spent packing and sorting through the stores.. We sailed back to Kilifi, where we girls helped Winkie's Mum make breakfast and lunch "boxes" for the fishermen. We were paid for our help. Customs was one day late coming to clear us, but finally, we were free to leave and sail north to Djibouti via Port Lame, which was 120NM north and was an ancient town with lots of ruins to explore
